My Antarctica Adventure

For many intrepid travellers, Antarctica is at the top of their travel wish list. FBI Travel Advisor Ginette Peterfreund recently experienced the ultimate adventure on the 13-day Spirit of Antarctica featuring the Chilean Fjords voyage with Aurora Expeditions.

My Antarctica voyage

Antarctica! Excited – you bet. This was the last of the 7 continents I had yet to travel so I was delighted to be invited on an Aurora Expeditions voyage. Our journey started in Punta Arenas, Chile, where we boarded the purpose-built ship, Sylvia Earle, named after marine biologist, oceanographer and explorer, Dr. Sylvia Earle.

Starting our sailing into the Chilean Fjords allowed us to easily settle into the ship and get to know the crew, expedition team and our fellow travellers, before continuing our voyage to Antarctica via the Drake Passage. Most voyagers are concerned about that crossing, and we did, in fact, experience a Drake Shake instead of a Drake Lake. Anticipation of finally reaching our destination soared like the albatrosses winging past the windows. Whales spurted in the distance, there were icebergs aplenty and the sea suddenly became calmer. Nature continued to surprise and excel.

Once we ‘arrived’, we were advised we would be going straight out into the Zodiacs. There’s a small learning curve about how to embark and disembark a Zodiac and how to behave once you’re aboard. The expedition guides were also the Zodiac captains and we were allocated a different guide each time we went out. Each specialised in something different, which meant a new perspective, new information, and a unique experience on each adventure.

Two Zodiac excursions daily, provided plenty of adventures. Our first was to Lindblad Cove where we saw penguins, whales and sea lions. Later that day, we went to Lancaster Cove. Antarctica is so vast and so remote. And so quiet. I’ve never experienced anything like it. Our guide explained the many whales floating like tree logs in the water were actually asleep! The birdwatchers on my Zodiac were very excited by the number and variety of birds too. The natural life was abundant.

I didn’t realise exactly how cold it would be, particularly when out on a Zodiac. It got down to -8 degrees centigrade! In between excursions, on the first day, many of us headed straight to the ship’s shop to purchase extra items to keep warm.

The next day, we achieved our main goal of the voyage and made land on the Antarctic Peninsula. It was so exciting to step foot on the 7th continent, where so few people have ever been. Our first landing site was Portal Point which is located on the Reclus Peninsula. It was a British survey station for a few years in the 1950s before being closed down, bequeathing the area to so many seals.

The Governoren

That afternoon, we headed to Foyn Harbour where we saw and learned about the Governoren shipwreck. The harbour itself is named after a whaling factory and the Governoren was also a whaling factory in operation during the 1910s. At the end of one whaling season and before making the long journey home, the crew threw a party and somehow started a fire – on a ship full of whale oil. Fortunately, the entire crew were able to evacuate and were rescued.

Whaling in Antarctica was banned in the 1980s and it was just wonderful to see so many of these majestic creatures, including Minke and Humpbacks, gliding through the water – we even saw a Minke whale breach three times - awesome.

The following morning, we were woken early to see whales on the starboard side, so we all rushed up to see them for a pre-breakfast treat. There were so many surprising moments. The weather was misty, the atmosphere mysterious. We then made another landing, this time at Petermann Island. There were so many penguins – Adelie and Gentoo.

Back on board the ship, I prepared to experience what became the major highlight of my expedition, a polar plunge! Those that wanted to participate, lined up on one of the ship’s Zodiac boarding platforms and one at a time, we jumped into the freezing water and swam quickly to the boarding platform. It was absolutely exhilarating, something I never thought I’d have the opportunity or the guts to do.

We were greeted back on board with a shot of vodka to warm us up and then headed straight for a hot shower or to the heated spas out on deck. The hands-on crew accommodated anyone who wished to take the plunge, no matter their ability and always managed to provide stunning opportunities for their guests.

After lunch, we headed out for another landing at Wordie House, an old research hut on Winter Island. The current hut was built in 1947 after the original 1936 hut was destroyed, possibly by a tsunami or tidal wave. Managed by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust, it provided a really interesting insight into the conditions that early researchers lived in. The fantastic views featured a sea lion cavorting in a starring role.

On our last day, we went to Neko Harbour, but due to the weather conditions, we were unable to land. However, the many penguins, whales, sea lions and lovely ice formations, and an incredible pod of orcas porpoising beside the ship, again compensated any disappointment.

The weather was unfortunately against us, so after a group photo on deck, we were advised we needed to leave Antarctica immediately to head back to Ushuaia.

On arrival, we were taken to a storage facility to leave our luggage and had the day to explore this lovely little town before heading to the airport for our journey home.

The Aurora Expeditions team

I really can’t say enough about the team aboard the Sylvia Earle. They were delightful, friendly and knowledgeable. The service was impeccable. They really cared about the environment, the travellers on board and their colleagues.

We were even welcomed onto the bridge to learn about the instruments and how everything works day to day. It was fascinating.

The expedition team of more than 20 were absolutely amazing and we really felt they were endeavoring to give us the best experience possible. They were keen to chat and answer all our questions, and their passion for Antarctica and their scientific specialty was infectious. As this was an expedition voyage, it didn’t offer the kind of entertainment you’d find on a traditional cruise. Instead, the expedition team ran some fascinating lectures and practical lessons designed to educate us. The lectures explored topics I never expected to find so enthralling.

The Sylvia Earle

Built in 2022, the 100% carbon neutral ship has a maximum of 130 passengers with an average of 110. There were 80 on my voyage. The ship features the Ulstein X-BOW design which minimises its environmental impact whilst providing a smoother experience.

The cabins were well-appointed, including heated floors in the bathroom. Guests can choose from suites, balcony staterooms or superior staterooms. Aurora Expeditions also cater for solo travellers with solo rooms available.

The ship has an array of wonderful features including a Wellness Centre and sauna along with two jacuzzis and a heated pool out on the deck, providing unique views.

Along with the lecture room, there is also a library full of non-fiction books, guidebooks, travel journals, novels and board games; and a Citizen Science Centre where travellers can help gather scientific data and learn more about the research being conducted.

The main restaurant was versatile: buffet style for breakfast and lunch and a la carte for dinner, with wine and beer available. The menu changed every day and the quality was excellent. The staff handled food intolerances well, meeting with these travellers daily. There was a smaller restaurant upstairs which was great for a change of scenery. It was a good place to take some time to yourself and reflect on the day’s activities. The atmosphere on board is really relaxed and travellers are encouraged to dress comfortably and for the conditions – there aren’t any formal nights or dress codes. Guests could chat with fellow travellers at the bar and continue to share their experiences of the day, their travels and their lives back home.

There are 15 Zodiacs which can be boarded through four different doors. Everyone was able to get on or off efficiently. Guests are allocated an open locker in the mudroom to keep our loan muck boots (similar to gumboots) and anything else they didn’t want to take back up to their cabins each time. It was also great to leave any wet gear here to dry off. Aurora Expeditions also provide a 3-in-1 waterproof jacket to keep.

Practical information

When to go to Antarctica

The Antarctica season runs in the summer from November to March each year. The best time to go depends on

what you would like to see and do and if you are planning on travelling in South America before or after your voyage. Your FBI Travel Advisor can give you the best advice, providing optimal times depending on your interests.

How to get there

Generally, ships for Antarctica leave from Ushuaia which is at the southern tip of Argentina. Ushuaia is a 3.5 hour flight from Buenos Aires.

If you’re not keen on sailing the Drake Passage, Aurora Expeditions offer ‘Fly the Drake’ voyages from Punta Arenas, Chile where you’ll board a charter flight to King George Island to transfer via Zodiac to the ship. Please note that the charter flight is weather dependent.

We recommend flying with LATAM Airlines who fly from Melbourne into both Buenos Aires and Punta Arenas. LATAM Airlines also have excellent connections throughout South America should you wish to see and do more before or after your Antarctica voyage.

To get to Ushuaia, the best option is to fly with Aerolineas Argentina who have multiple daily flights.

Find out more about Aurora Expeditions and their fantastic range of voyages to Antarctica, the Arctic and beyond.

Still have questions? Read our 9 of the most common questions about Antarctica blog.

To experience Antarctica for yourself, please contact Ginette or your preferred FBI Travel Advisor.

All images courtesy of Ginette Peterfreund.

Ginette travelled courtesy of Aurora Expeditions.