Exploring Morocco’s most famous landscapes

“Come on!” my brother yelled as he scrambled up the steep dunes. Scanning the horizon, the undulating red and gold sand stretched as far as the eye could see, sharply intersecting with the crisp, straight lines of royal blue sky. My husband and I looked at each other for second, then set off up the steep slope after him, he comfortably beating me to the top. I turned, puffing, to look back to where we’d been standing moments earlier, down at the dotted line of camels and 10 other people all snapping photos and admiring the beginning of the sunset.

We were on a small group tour of Morocco and were arguably in the midst of the itinerary highlight – an overnight stay in the Sahara Desert.

As a child-student of Disney, I’d watched Aladdin god-knows how many times, but never actually thought I’d experience one of the Arabian Nights I’d witnessed on screen. Growing up in Melbourne, nothing seemed more exotic to me than this mysterious desert. And having just ridden a camel for an hour across the seemingly never-ending landscape, I was elated to find it was one of those bucket list experiences that actually lived up to the images that had captured my imagination for so long.

“Yalla!” our local guide called up to us, signalling that it was time to keep moving to our final destination, the Bedouin campsite where we would be spending the night. While I was tempted to linger, we’d been told how important it was to make it to camp before the sun set, and I wasn’t about to argue. So, back on our camels and onwards we snaked in a line.

The night spent at the camp included dinner under the stars, a buffet of local delicacies including tagine and couscous (especially impressive when you remember how difficult it would be to prepare dinner for a group of our size when you have to BYO kitchen as well as ingredients!), local music, dancing and sharing stories around a campfire. When we eventually made our way into our large, shared tents, it was hard to imagine sleeping, but somehow, we did. I’ve rarely ever felt so far from home, yet so peaceful.

The following morning, we awoke to icy desert air and a sunrise that challenged the beauty of the sunset the night before. Before we knew it, we were back on our camels and on our way to the village of Merzouga where we’d left our bus and bags the night before.

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While the Sahara Desert is the jewel in Morocco’s crown and visiting is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, one of the things that surprised me when travelling around the country was the diversity and beauty of the other landscapes.

On another leg of our tour, we visited the High Atlas Mountains, the mountain pass of Tizi n’Tichka to be exact, clocking in at 2,260 metres above sea level. En route back to Marrakesh, we stopped on the side of this winding, 54-kilometre road for a guided walking tour of the rocky landscape, complete with snowcapped peaks as our backdrop. Relatively barren and colourless, except for a few wildflowers, there was something compelling about the ruggedness of it all. The famous road was originally constructed during the Second World War by the French Army, as a way to connect Marrakesh with the south of the country, and the panoramic views of the dramatic landscape are now enjoyed my many tourists who make the journey every year.

You compare this to the majestic Todra Gorge. Our group arrived here in the late afternoon about halfway through our trip and set off to explore the narrow passages, tracking the river beneath the 300-metre high towering limestone cliff faces. This centuries-old site, though popular with tourists, had that peaceful atmosphere that you only ever really experience when you find yourself in nature that has remained unchanged for hundreds of years. Despite the vastness of the cliffs, it felt strangely cosy and protected tracing the well-worn paths back to our nearby guesthouse, which was situated high in the hills with stunning views of the river and surrounding foliage. After a lively dinner in the dining space in our locally run guesthouse, we made our way up to the rooftop to enjoy some candlelit drinks and a few games of cards to top the night off.

Then there was the Dades Valley – an arguably lesser-known destination in the High Atlas on our itinerary. The lush green oases littered throughout the valley, dotted with palm trees, couldn’t be more different from the golden sands of the Sahara. The assortment of mudbrick houses that we saw on our travels are the genesis for its nickname, the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs. We passed through the vibrant landscape on a long drive day, which made for a fun game of ‘oasis spotting’ from our van. We even stopped and found a roadside lookout point above an oasis that was nestled in a stretch of rocky red sand. It was so stark, it almost looked as though it was manmade (it wasn’t) and it made for the ideal backdrop for some memorable group photos.

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No exploration of Morocco’s many landscapes would be complete without a visit to Ait Benhaddou. While you may never have heard the name before, this “skyline” is arguably one of the most famous in the world. This is because the UNESCO listed village is a favourite of Hollywood sets, due to the fact it appears frozen in time, perched atop sandy dunes.

We arrived at the village in the afternoon and set off to climb to the top of one of the sandy peaks on which the town is built for a better view and photo opportunity, only to find ourselves caught in a short-lived windstorm, which our guide assured us would pass quickly! We all lay face down on the ground behind a small fence, protecting our faces and eyes with our scarfs or jumpers, waiting until the swirls of sand subsided enough for us to gingerly make our way back the hill to the protection of the roads below. We were all a bit shellshocked by the force by which the windstorm had manifested, and equally surprised by how quickly it had dissipated – a reminder for any traveller that no matter how carefully planned an itinerary is, there are some forces of nature you simply can’t predict or control!

I visited Morocco with the ambition of living out my childhood dreams of exploring the ethereal sands of the Sahara, and that experience certainly didn’t disappoint. But what I hadn’t appreciated before my visit was the sheer diversity and natural beauty of the country as a whole. In the space of less than two weeks, it felt like I visited several different countries with varying topographies and climates (and cities – but that’s a whole other story!). Anyone who has a penchant for epic natural wonders, loves variety in their travels or fancies themselves a landscape photography buff should consider Morocco as their next destination. I promise you – you won’t regret it.  

Looking to travel to Morocco? The expert team at FBI Travel can find the perfect group tour just for you or arrange a personalised itinerary to suit your tastes. Enquire now.

The writer travelled as a guest of Intrepid Travel.

Ait Benhaddou image from Shutterstock. All other images courtesy of Amy Joseph.